Alto-Adige has been the gateway between Austria and Italy for significantly longer than either country has existed, and the people who live in these narrow alpine valleys have learned to take the best parts of each culture for their own. For winemakers like Eva Kaneppele at Weingut-Tenuta Ritterhof, that synthesis results in beautifully clear headed and fresh wines like this Goldmuskateller grown in the sand and gravel soils near the Lago de Caldaro and under the eaves of Monte Roen a little way south of Bolzano. Reliably warm and sunny days follow reliably cold nights at this elevation, giving wines from Alto Adige an ideal balance of power and energy. Muskat from Alto Adige shows off the region's signature spice, packaged with the intensity and lush floral notes of Muscat. Aromas here include tangerine, honeysuckle, gardenia, and camomile, with a scoop of white pepper. The palate is a citrus explosion, with orange and lemon and tangerine and kumquat and a slice of lime drifting off into the pina colada sunset of a finish. It's a head spinner, bone dry and mineral on the one hand, but bursting with fruit on the other.